Date: 1999 May 15
Subject: Plant Walk ...
(Posted in newsgroups: scruz.events and rec.backcountry, as
well as mailed to a few of my favorite relevant mailing lists.
My apologies to those of you who decide to delete it twice.)
"The epigenous disk lacks indurate peltate scales"
(at least, that's what I think he said)
Trip report, 15 May 1999
Swanton (northwest of Santa Cruz, CA)
If you're headed northwest from Santa Cruz, up Highway 1 towards Point
Ano Nuevo and Half Moon Bay, Swanton Road goes off inland just about a
mile or so beyond Davenport. It loops up along Scott Creek, then
climbs over a ridge and descends back to Highway 1 near the Big Creek
Lumber yard, near Greyhound Rock. For migrating waterfowl, Scott
Creek's marshy lagoon is one of the more important stops in the area.
The Swanton Pacific Ranch is a recent (early 90's) gift from Al
Smith's estate, to Cal Poly San Luis Obispo. It is about 3200 acres
of land along the coast and inland, surrounding Swanton Road.
See
http://urbanfor.cagr.calpoly.edu/data/WebSites/swanton/swanton.html
for a bit of detail about the Swanton area, history about Al Smith,
and his little local "one-third scale" railroad.
The invitation, sent to scruz.general, said:
Join skilled botanist Roy Buck and the California Native Plant
Society in a tour of Cal Poly's Swanton Pacific Ranch. This is
an area of unexplained hyperdiversity, containing over 600 native
species. Many thanks to Cal Poly for hosting the outing and for
their plant preservation programs. [...]
Meet at the red house at 299 Swanton Road [...]
The walk begins at 10 AM and ends at 4 PM. [...]
So naturally when I got there (9:30 or so), there were TWO red houses
next to one another, neither one marked with an address that I could
find. There was an older gent sitting in a truck, studying the newspaper.
Since I was so early, I just kinda wandered around a bit. I checked out
the little train setup -- it's pretty impressive.
Some visible activity had led me to assume that there was some kind
of equestrian event going on that day, and after a while, an equestrian
rode near where I had parked, asking me where the Vet Station is.
I point down the trail, where I did earlier see a sign for that, and
asked her what's up. It was a 30-mile-ride, a 50-mile-ride, and a
ride-and-tie event, all going on at the Ranch that day.
At about ten o'clock, no one had shown up for the botany walk, so I
wondered whether the guy in the truck is "it" -- I asked him, and
nope, he knew nothing about it, but said that "they oughta be along
soon".
Sure enough, some cars started showing up, and we kinda met:
- Vince, from the CNPS (California Native Plant Society),
- Roy Buck (the SLO botanist leading the trip)
- Jim West (a longtime botany prodigy who spent much of his life
in the Swanton area, and who discovered at least one
or two new species or subspecies by the time he was 21)
- about five other people
Vince handed out copies of "Jim West's Amazing Swanton Plant List", a
printout which contains a list of the latin names of somewhat over 600
plant species. One of them said that this is roughly 10% to 11% of
the number of species in all of California (an unusually diverse
state), which is pretty remarkable for such a small bit of land. A
very few of the plant listings (serviceberry, dwarf nettle, umbrella
sedge, and a few others) also showed the plant's common name,
hand-written onto the list before it was photocopied.
Jim pointed out one of the plants near us, and Roy pointed out the one
Monterey Pine (Pinus Radiata) nearby; the Swanton area is one of only
three spots on the California Coast where this tree is native (the
others are Monterey and Cambria). Roy & Jim each gave us a bit of the
history and pre-history of the area, and we started off. A great
"California Nutmeg" grows here. One of the redwoods has wooden
ladders leading right to the top, some 80 or so feet up.
We were going to cross Scott Creek near here, and then climb up and over
the ridge to the coastside hills, but there was more water than expected.
After a few interesting words about the mixed-up sedges by the stream,
we headed instead down along the narrow tracks, where there's a new
bridge over Scott Creek, a half mile downstream. The original bridge
was washed out during the El Nino winter, the new one looks pretty
heavy-duty. There are photos of the old destroyed bridge, somewhere
near that Swanton URL I gave above, e.g., at
http://urbanfor.cagr.calpoly.edu/data/WebSites/swanton/data/ranch/1998Floods/Sc
ott_Crk&RR_Bridge/RRBridge_north_end.jpg
(sorry if that URL wraps badly).
Across the bridge, the tracks ran another third of a mile or so, and
we were shown some examples of some of the non-native plants that are
invading this area (Cape Ivy, Forget-me-not, Vinca (Periwinkle)).
Jim noticed an odd little bush along the tracks, I think it might have
been a vetch or another sedge (I probably would never have identified
it more precisely than "a little bush"). It was this bush that gave
rise to the quote "The epigenous disk lacks indurate peltate scales,"
explained below for the persistent.
Some of the time, I'd be just behind the two botanists for a bit,
and hearing them talk with one another gave me a taste of what it
must be like for non-computer people to listen to us computer nerds
talk about bits, bytes, inodes, and virtual destructors. Refreshing
to listen to botany nerds for a while instead!
It was a cool afternoon, nice as we walked along the tracks. Near
an open field, there was a rocky spot with horsetails growing
uncharacteristically out from the rocks. (The terrain looked like
there was an underground stream right there.) Horsetails are much
older evolution-wise than fancy plants like trees and flowers.
There's an awesome California Laurel right along here.
The steep hillsides near here have a few patches of "vertical
grasslands" -- areas where the soil stays too thin, the rocks too
close to the surface, for anything larger than grass to grow. These
spots act as windows to the past for botanists, since they prevent the
normal natural succession of a grassy meadow to a bushy area to a
forest to a shopping mall. :-)
We climbed up a steep, badly-designed and eroded trail that led over a
ridge, into some *serious* wind. This is just a bit above highway
one, and we would hike into that wind for the next three or four
miles. There are a couple of herds of cows along this area. One of
the intentions for Al Smith's donation of the land to Cal Poly was for
it to serve in part as a place to study sustainable agriculture, with
an eye towards making it possible for agriculture to coexist with
habitat preservation.
We saw a few fine blue-blooming ceanothus bushes, lots of little flowers,
sedges, thistles (including one native variety). There are a few
places along here where they have built ponds to help out the
California Red-Legged Frogs.
On one of the beautiful purple thistle flowers, I spotted a
weird-looking bright metallic green bee-like bug. Next time I saw
another one on another flower, I pointed it out to one of the botanists
and asked him what that was, he started to describe the flower.
I said, "no, the bee". He didn't know. I looked it up later, and it
turned out that it must have been an Ohlone Tiger Beetle. This is one
of the species of some concern to environmentalists; there has been a
proposal to designate them as threatened or endangered. [See
http://www.santacruzpl.org/ref/endang/cicinde.shtml
for details.]
We finally got to a spot where we could head back inland over the hill
and out of the wind. The group split up, as some of us had other
things to do that day. There was a fairly steep climb down an
almost-nonexistent trail, back to Scott Creek. At the "T" at the
bottom of that trail, it wasn't clear to everyone which way to go. I
figured that we had to go downstream, since we hadn't seen this spot
earlier in the day. So the group split up again; some folks apparently
found a dry crossing upstream a bit; those of us who went downstream
just slogged through the stream and went home with wet shoes and
ankles.
A very fun day -- thanks to the Calif. Native Plant Society, to
Charles Koester, Vince, Roy, Jim, and Al Smith.
Here is a bit of description of Al Smith and the Swanton area:
http://urbanfor.cagr.calpoly.edu/data/WebSites/swanton/swanton.html
I guess he started Orchard Supply Hardware.
The CNPS page is at http://www.cnps.org/
"Epigenous?"
I suppose it's not quite fair to have titled this trip report with a
quote ("The epigenous disk lacks indurate peltate scales") that I did
not explain. Here are summaries of the dictionary definitions of the
words:
epigenous - growing on the surface of a leaf or other plant part,
esp. the upper surface, as a fungus
indurate - hardened
peltate - shield-shaped; specif. having the stalk attached to the
lower surface within the margin (of a leaf)
The context was that this particular variety of this species of
whatever it was (sorry, Jim) had some ways in which it differs from
the "normal" ones. At Swanton, the stalk with these disks on it is
much harder (or softer) than expected, leading the botanist to suggest
that this deserved designation as a subspecies.
All of the alleged facts I write here are "to the best of my
recollection", mistakes are my own, not Roy's nor Jim's.
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2007
Doug Landauer
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Last update:
07/9/16; 00:09:49
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